Dafna Gazit/Israel Antiquities AuthoritySamples of the oldest known insect-dyed fabric.
Dyeing fabrics red has often played an important, symbolic role in various cultures throughout time. Historically, this bold color has been achieved in a variety of ways, including using both plant and animal materials. Now, researchers have found evidence of the oldest piece of fabric colored with insect dye in Israel’s Cave of Skulls.
Dating back 4,000 years, this discovery is rare not only because of the perishable nature of fabric, but also because making dye from insects was an expensive and labor-intensive process. This suggests the fabric might have once signified wealth and status in Middle Bronze Age societies.
Analysis Of The Ancient Fabric Identifies The Insect Used To Make The Dye
First excavated in 1960, and then again in 2016 by the Israel Antiquities Authority and the Institute of Archaeology at the Hebrew University of Jerusalem, the Cave of Skulls in Nahal Ze’elim has been a major boon for archaeologists.
Excavations at the site have yielded a number of discoveries, including over 430 textiles dating from the Chalcolithic period to the Roman period. These ancient finds were astonishingly well-preserved thanks to the cave’s consistent, dry microclimate.
Today, new analysis techniques allow researchers to examine these fabrics and determine their age and composition. And recently, a team of researchers analyzed a pair of linen and wool red textiles found in the cave — to astonishing results.
As detailed in a study published in the Journal of Archaeological Science: Reports, the team used High-Pressure Liquid Chromatography (HPLC) to analyze the dye. The two tiny fragments, each measuring about one square centimeter, date between 1954 and 1767 B.C.E.
What’s more, researchers determined that the fabric’s red dye was created using Kermes vermilio, a type of parasitic scale insect that burrows in oak trees — making this the earliest known example of fabrics dyed using scale insects.
Naama Sukenik et al.Kermes vermilio larvae on the left, with the fabric sample in the center.
“Luxurious red dyes were derived from various species of scale insects, particularly those belonging to the Coccoidea superfamily,” researchers wrote in the study. “This superfamily includes species such as Kermes, cochineal, and lac-insects… all of which were well-known in the ancient world for their ability to produce vibrant red colors.”
Researchers explained that the red color produced by these insects is due to the presence of either carminic acid or kermesic acid molecules in their physiology, which is also what enabled the team to identify the species used to create the dye. And although the textile sample was small, modern advancements in technology enabled them to extract a wealth of information.
“HPLC has been a widely employed technique since 1985 for identifying archaeological dyes, and it offers a robust approach for quantitatively analyzing the anthraquinone composition of ancient textile dyes,” study authors wrote. “Although the analysis itself is destructive, it can identify components present in minute amounts, and only a small sample of the tested object is required.”
After reading about this ancient textile, see our collection of stunning photographs of the world’s most beautiful caves. Or, learn about 11 astonishing underground cities from around the world.